Incense Oud by Kilian Review

The evocative resin of agarwood, also called oud, has been prized for its medicinal properties since ancient times. It’s been a key ingredient in ayurvedic medicine, used to treat a variety of conditions from heart disease and rheumatoid arthritis to leprosy, digestive disorders and more. Even in our modern world, the scent of agarwood can invoke spiritual qualities of divinity and immortality. It’s no wonder that when Kilian perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur envisioned the fragrance Incense Oud, she envisioned it as an aura of divine purity.

Agarwood is produced naturally by an invading fungus that grows within the heartwood of certain aquilaria trees. While the fungus is not toxic, it must be harvested without harming the tree by cutting it down or burning it. The most prized agarwood is said to be “incense-grade,” meaning it has a significant amount of dark resin within it. The resulting oil is expensive, but it is said to have the most intense olfactory impact.

As part of the Collection Arabian Nights, which is a series of oud-based perfumes crafted by Kilian, Incense Oud was launched in 2009. It is signed by Lancesseur (creator of the J’adore and Marc Jacobs Lola scents) who has written three other oud-based fragrances for the brand, including Cruel Intentions and Straight to Heaven.

The perfume itself is a unisex offering with top notes of rose and resinous cardamom that are accented with pink pepper and geranium for rosy nuances. Earthy patchouli and Virginia cedar ground with papyrus and methyl pamplemousse adds depth to the woody accord. Sandalwood, cistus labdanum and oak moss adds a bit of dryness to the overall effect.

This is a very smoky, rich and balsamic aroma that can be worn by men or women, although it is most likely to appeal to those who have a preference for more smoky or masculine-oriented scents. It wears well on the skin and is a good choice for evening occasions, when a bit of warmth is in order.

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